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      Equilibrium-brined pork tenderloin

      First steps in equilibrium brining

      One of the terms that came up frequently right after Modernist Cuisine was released was a€?equilibrium brining,a€? but it took me a long time to fully internalize the concept and get around to trying it out. Traditional brining involves placing meat in a relatively concentrated salt solution for a short length of time. You have […]

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      I was very excited recently to see that my preferred green coffee supplier, Sweet Mariaa€?s, had a supply of coffee from Yemen, specifically named for the Yemeni port city of Mokha. As well, they had a variety of coffees from the Indonesian island of Java. These are two of the oldest sites of coffee cultivation […]

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      Chilli jam-1

      Chilli jam

      The first Thai cookbook I ever bought was Simply Thai Cooking??by Wandee Young, which I gave as a gift to my husband. (At the time, it was the first edition!) It remains a go-to book for both of us when we want a weeknight Thai dinner, without having to go to the trouble of pounding […]

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      Cereal Milk Truffle-1

      No crying over spilt milk: Cereal milk truffles

      Last weekend was the annual eGullet chocolate and confectionery workshop, held this year at Niagara College in Niagara-on-the-Lake, Ontario. The first night of the workshop usually functions as a sort of a€?show and tell,a€? where the chocolatiers and confectioners who have gathered from across North America share samples of the treats theya€?ve been working on […]

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      One of the funny things about being a stagiaire is that you dona€?t usually work a specific station. One minute youa€?re trimming elk tenderloins, the next youa€?re making an Italian meringue for buttercream. This certainly has its drawbacks: without being assigned to a particular set of dishes, it can feel like you have no a€?ownershipa€? […]

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      Kitchen lingo

      As a translator, I continue to be fascinated by the specific language that develops in kitchens. Lately, I’ve been noticing a tendency to take nouns and turn them into verbs. I once had a lengthy discussion with a friend who’s a server about when a table of diners should be “breaded.” (After which, presumably, they’re […]

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      On the road

      I’m currently on the road, in Ottawa (where I enjoyed the “grilled cheese sloppy joe” pictured above at Art Is In bakery). I’ll be here for the entire month of March, staging at a number of restaurants. Rather than putting my blog on hold for that time, though, my goal is to try and post […]

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      Bouchon Bakery loaf

      B?¢tard! Bouchon Bakery bread

      After the success of the other Bouchon Bakery??recipes I tried, and in light of my efforts to bake bread more regularly in order to better understand the process, I thought it would be interesting to try the Bouchon Bakery a€?Master Recipea€? for bread. Nearly all the breads in the book call for a pre-ferment, either […]

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      Airmail cocktail

      Friday Night Cocktail: Airmail

      I dona€?t make cocktails with sparkling wine very often, because good sparkling wine can be expensive, cocktails alone rarely use the whole bottle, and it tends to lose its fizz too fast if stored. But sometimes you just need the effervescence that only sparkling wine can provide. We first tried the Airmail cocktail at Beretta […]

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      Bouchon Bakery treats

      Baking with Bouchon Bakery

      My husband gave me a copy of Bouchon Bakery??as a gift in December, bringing my total collection of Thomas Keller Restaurant Group cookbooks up to four. After opening it, I wasted no time in diving in. The book approaches baked goods, both p?¢tisserie and boulangerie (with a little confectionery thrown in for good measure) in […]

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